The Trip Begins!
From my first moment in the Delhi Airport I knew my time in India was going to be different from what I expected! In a country of some 1.2 billion people (4 times the U.S. and ¼ the geographic size) the visual I anticipated at the airport was one of mass chaos, like the airport scene in the movie Outsourced. Instead, everything appeared organized and calm. Was I really in India? In no time, however, my senses shifted into fifth gear. The aroma of Indian food at the airport told me we were no longer were we in the Chicago Airport with its distinctive smells of Nathan’s, Pizza Hut, and Starbucks!!! And this was only the first of many sensory events to come.
The calm and quiet of the airport was short-lived. Soon our excited cohort of 12 incredible Pepperdine students, two extraordinary faculty members, and three awesomely engaging guests exited the terminal. First to catch my eye was a number of stray dogs; thin and without collars and tags. I love dogs, so I felt a “shinny eyes” moment coming on. Next, I was taken aback by the largest billboard I have ever seen – for Land Rover, no less! I later came to understand the billboard was concealing some unstructured housing (more about unstructured housing later).
Our drivers met us at the airport on schedule and we were off to the Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi. Traffic in India is incredible - a real attack on the senses. For starters, drivers in India seem to use their horns about as much as we use turn signals; and I’m still not sure why lane lines are painted on the streets, since nobody seems to drive within them. I can’t imagine renting a car and driving without having a panic attack!
Once we arrived at the hotel, I felt a little more at home. The Taj Hotel was beautiful; and the staff was extremely gracious, engaging, and an outstanding example for their employer (the Tata Corp.) and their country. Never have I experienced such warmth and hospitality in my travels!
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| Taj Palace Hotel, New Delhi |
Once we arrived at the hotel, I felt a little more at home. The Taj Hotel was beautiful; and the staff was extremely gracious, engaging, and an outstanding example for their employer (the Tata Corp.) and their country. Never have I experienced such warmth and hospitality in my travels!
Delhi Old, Delhi New; a City of Multiple Dimensions
The following day brought us a tour through New Delhi as well as Old Delhi – what a stark contrast. Our drive through New Delhi (the seat of government) took us past the Presidential Palace, the Department of Army and Finance, Parliament, and the Supreme Court. As our driver negotiated the turnabouts, I was reminded of the turnabouts in England and the fact that India was ruled by the British until 1947.
Old Delhi was quite different as it was marked by the Red Stone Fort and a number of historic mosques sites where women had to don colorful free-flowing sack-dresses to enter. 
Old Delhi was also different in terms of extreme poverty. When our bus stopped in mid-city I was emotionally stricken by the impoverished people, some of them were mothers begging for their children, and many were minus limbs. Equally striking, was the hopefulness I saw in their eyes. Perhaps it was an internal promise of a better tomorrow that gave them hope, or maybe the billboards that spoke to a 500% increase in GDP by 2047, but most likely it was a strong sense of spiritualism and a vision of different future in the afterlife.
Old Delhi was also different in terms of extreme poverty. When our bus stopped in mid-city I was emotionally stricken by the impoverished people, some of them were mothers begging for their children, and many were minus limbs. Equally striking, was the hopefulness I saw in their eyes. Perhaps it was an internal promise of a better tomorrow that gave them hope, or maybe the billboards that spoke to a 500% increase in GDP by 2047, but most likely it was a strong sense of spiritualism and a vision of different future in the afterlife.  |
| Dr. June, Dee, Brenda, Ann. Dean Weber, Jackie, Lacey, Sam, Sarah |
In the course of the days that followed, we learned a number of factoids about India; that 40% of the population lives below the poverty line; 30% exist on less that $1 per day; and that astrology plays a major role in personal and business decision-making!
Off to the Taj Mahal We Go!
Without a doubt, our visit to the Taj Mahal (in Agra) was the most breathtaking! Though the commute from Delhi to Agra was only about 125 miles, the drive took some 4+ hours – but it was so worth it. Considered to be the epitome of love, the Taj was built in mid 1600s by Shah Jahan as a memorial for his wife Mumtaz who died while giving birth to their 14th child. The memorial is constructed from white marble and semi-precious stones, and is a stunning combination of Persian, Indian, and Islamic design. Four minarets frame the main building. In contrast to the stunning exterior, the inside of the Taj is relatively stark (this is in keeping concert with Muslim tradition). Overall, the building process, estimated at $2M at the time of construction, required the efforts of some 22,000 workers and 1,000 elephants; and in spite of wars, political changes, weather, and pollution, it stands today as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World attracting some 4 million visitors annually. More than 150 Temples in One City?
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| Sri Krishna-Balarama Temple |
On the way back to Delhi we stopped in Vrindavan the home of Krishna and more than 150 temples. The city is a pilgrimage site with many of the temples built in the 1500s. During our time in Vrindavan we visited one of the newer temples, the Sri Krishna-Balarama. Built from pure white marble, Balarama is incredibly beautiful and quite ornate. We were fortunate to visit during one of the prayer ceremonies where, once again, our senses were awakened by the smell of the incense, the tones of the chants, the art that surrounded us, and the feeling of spiritualism that engulfed us.
Onward: From the City of Government to the City of Commerce and Finance
When we left Delhi for Mumbai, we flew Kingfisher Airlines. I mention this because it took me back to how air travel used to be in the U.S.; assigned seats, food service, clean planes, and customer-oriented employees! Unfortunately, a couple of our fellow travelers had come down with “Delhi Belly” and weren’t exactly “feeling the love” of Kingfisher Airlines!
During our time in Mumbai, I found the city to be quite interesting – it is the financial metropolis for India and is non-stop commerce – I guess you might say it's a bit like our Wall Street. The difference in levels of wealth in this city is incredible; lots of high rise commercial buildings in the midst of unstructured housing; a real study in the “haves” and the “have-nots”.
Welingkar Welcomes the Pepperdine Cohort
While in Mumbai, we visited the Welingkar Institute of Management, Development, and Research (awarded the 2010, Outstanding Institute of Management in India). At the entrance we were welcomed by Rangoli Art made from dry colored powder; an Indian tradition for special occasions and a way of expressing warmth and hospitality to special visitors.
Before lectures began, we took part in the “Lighting of the Lamp”, a ceremony with a religious feel that marks new events in Indian culture. This took me back to my days in Catholic School when we began each day with a prayer. Our lectures at Welingkar provided us a look into Indian society and corporate philosophies as well as an insight into one of India’s most important strategic imperatives - the overall growth of the Indian economy specifically through the international presence and acquisitions.
I found the focus on corporate responsibility, sustainability, and the “triple bottom line” (People, Planet, and Profit) to be most interesting. The words of Sarita Bahl were of particular import as they examined the business practices of today in the context of the implications for tomorrow. Sarita emphasized that Indian corporate leadership is well aware of the potential impact of globalization on the Indian culture and the need for balancing the increases in financial well-being with possibly far-reaching impacts to culture and customs and the possible loss of traditions and values among Indian youth.
Lijjat – the Business Where Women Rock!
For me, one of our most fascinating visits was a tour of Lijjat, a tax exempt cottage industry with a growth rate of some 20% per year, and a mission to benefit the maximum number of women. Lijjat is a women-owned profit sharing co-op bread making business. It was established in 1959 by seven women with a loan of 80 Rupees (about $2.00). The principle product is papads (much like round crispy tortillas) and the business has grown multi-million dollar enterprise. Each day local women pick up dough from the Lijjat Factory, take it home, and begin the labor intensive process of hand-rolling each papad. They do this while seated on the floor using a 6 inch rolling pin to flatten each papad. The papads are then placed on a round basket to dry in the sun. The next day the women bring the dried papads to the factory and receive payment.
Lijjat epitomizes the culture of India which places a high regard for family, hard work, and dreams of a better future. The efforts of the Lijjat employees and the success of the business clearly serve as an inspiration of teamwork, tenacity, and dedication. The Technology Business in India – a War for Talent
Another side trip took us to Hexaware Technologies. With a focus on outsourcing and off-shoring, Hexaware looks at client interface in terms of partnerships and win-win solutions designed to “delight” clients. Their technology is SEI-CMMI-Level 5 along with ISO 9000 certifications. Hexaware maintains a global orientation with operations in North America, Europe, and Asia Pacific with an emphasis on ERP, Business Analytics, and IV&V. Our time with Hexaware included a q/a session addressing talent wars for recruitment (each candidate received, on average, 3-4 job offers), and action plans to retain the “best and brightest” (via ongoing training and advancement). Hexaware invests heavily in courting recruits and in trying to keep their attrition rate below 18%. During our discussions, it quickly became obvious that business challenges for Hexaware are surprisingly similar to the ones facing corporations in the U.S. The issues that top their list of challenges include succession planning, transition management, knowledge management, risk management, talent retention, and growth.
Anyone for Fruits and Veggies?
I guess a trip to India would not be complete without a visit to Vashi and the government regulated market for fruits and vegetables known as the Agricultural Produce Market Committees (APMC). With 60,000 employees and some 5,000 traders the local APMC is the largest regulated market in all of Asia. Our tour of the APMC was truly an assault on the senses! The day was hot with the temperatures and humidity in the high 90s; the smells were so foul my stomach put me on alert; the noise level among the workers was almost riotous; and I felt a twinge of fear as I noted the rifle-toting guards. Yet somehow, among the sights, sounds, noise, and an almost infinite amount of fruits and vegetables, there appeared to be an underlying level of thoughtful organization among both management and workers – this was organized chaos at its best!Most Important Issue – In a country where 5-8% of the children are sold into slavery beginning at age eight, the issue of human trafficking is clearly the most daunting and disturbing of national challenges. In fact, even homeless people living in unstructured housing are buying children and leveraging them by having them beg on the local economy. Overtime, as these children become further committed to their oppressors and “recruit” other children into their “family”. Apathy on the part of the police forces offers little help to reduce human trafficking and, in fact, makes for a safe haven for the increased wholesale commerce of children.
Statistically, human trafficking is the third largest crime in India with $10B in sales and 800,000 victims. Western Europe is the largest importer of this form of labor where it is considered vital to the economy of all countries involved. Unfortunately, government corruption stands as a strong contributing factor to this assault on so many innocent people.
An integral component of human trafficking is the sex trade business. In India there are 30,000 sex workers. On a fundamental level, these people are considered “marginalized citizens”, not unlike the homeless in unstructured housing, who are on the fringe of society and thus excluded from meaningful participation in Indian society.
While in Mumbai we visited Aastha Parivaar, an organization committed to supporting and helping women involved in the business of sex with medical and psychological services. Their support also includes confidence building and training in areas such as literacy, sewing, and finances. Interestingly, our meeting was a “sit on the floor” discussion in a room that contained some 120,000 condoms (in boxes and on display)!
Most Interesting Discussion – When we chatted with Prakash Shula, CIO for the Taj Hotel Group, he made it very clear that the most memorable event of his career came in November, 2008 with the terrorist attack on the Taj Palace Hotel in Mumbai. During this event, a man whose career had included an education in the U.S, a position with IBM in speech recognition technologies, a stint with Goldman Sachs, and a decade with the Tata Corporation, encountered the never-envisioned situation of having his hotel guests in the cross-hairs of a terrorist assault. What Prakash described was nothing short of mind-boggling. How could an event of more than 100 deaths be a part of his career? Yet both he and the hotel staff rose to the occasion to do what the government and police seemed incapable of doing – protecting the hotel guests with dedicated staff, strong leadership, and good decisions. There are a number of stories where hotel staff was known to throw themselves in front of the guests to protect them from the gunfire! Without belaboring the description of Tata, suffice it to say that the company as diversified as it is with business in everything from cars to watches to software, Tata and its employees are known for dedication to community, customer service, and corporate values.
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| Mark, Shawn, El, and Dee with Aastha Parivaar members |
Most Interesting Discussion – When we chatted with Prakash Shula, CIO for the Taj Hotel Group, he made it very clear that the most memorable event of his career came in November, 2008 with the terrorist attack on the Taj Palace Hotel in Mumbai. During this event, a man whose career had included an education in the U.S, a position with IBM in speech recognition technologies, a stint with Goldman Sachs, and a decade with the Tata Corporation, encountered the never-envisioned situation of having his hotel guests in the cross-hairs of a terrorist assault. What Prakash described was nothing short of mind-boggling. How could an event of more than 100 deaths be a part of his career? Yet both he and the hotel staff rose to the occasion to do what the government and police seemed incapable of doing – protecting the hotel guests with dedicated staff, strong leadership, and good decisions. There are a number of stories where hotel staff was known to throw themselves in front of the guests to protect them from the gunfire! Without belaboring the description of Tata, suffice it to say that the company as diversified as it is with business in everything from cars to watches to software, Tata and its employees are known for dedication to community, customer service, and corporate values.
Having read Witzel’s Tata: The Evolution of a Corporate Brand, as well as Friedman’s The World Is Flat, I certainly see the connection between the Tata Corporation and their role in a globalized economy. I can also understand the role of a conglomerate such as Tata which is dedicated to trust, responsibility, and community in the context of the struggle to maintain Indian core values while doing 2/3 of their business internationally. A 140 year old company doing $71B in business across 80 countries makes Tata an economic force to be reckoned with; and since the corporation employs some 350,000 people, it is a social force as well! Fortunately, the foundation of Tata is strongly premised in the corporate responsibility of innovation for social good.
Most Interesting Topic – With a view to combining innovative support and social causes, the topic of Social Entrepreneurism peaked my interest. Our guest speaker, Kamini Kinger described projects within the world of NGOs that included; bringing opportunity to Rural India through micro-lending/financing, and democratizing opportunity. She addressed the unique attribute of the social entrepreneur who is in it more for society than for money – a true aha moment for me as my experiences with entrepreneurs has been just the opposite! Social entrepreneurs, she emphasized, use a capitalistic approach to address social needs. They highlight selling a solution versus selling a product. They also address empowerment as opposed to charity. In doing so, social entrepreneurism focuses first on launching social programs, and then on the bottom line.
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| Jackie, without a bib, sits between two Joes |
Most Favorite Restaurant – Rated one of the best dining experiences in New Delhi, Bukhara lived up to its name. Located in the ITC Maurva Hotel, the atmosphere was outstanding, the roast leg of lamb was an out-of-body experience for me, and the table bread must have been three feet in diameter! Overall, the food, wine, staff, and most of all our Pepperdine travel companions made this experience Class “A”!
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| Jeremy, without a bib, enjoys Bukhara with El and Dean Weber |
Most Fun - Our visit to Zee TV was pure enjoyment! Our behind the scenes tour included a look at the technology as well as the props. In addition, we were lucky enough to watch Bollywood practice sessions for Dance India Dance (India’s version of So You Think You Can Dance). The dancers were talented, engaging, and like some many of the people we met in their country, very hopeful.
Most Surprising Observations –
· A family of 8 traveling in a car that holds 4!
· A family of 4 traveling on a motor bike - only the driver was wearing a helmet!
· CD rates at 9-11%!
· Over the top advertising for Oreo Cookies (banners at every street corner)!
· Presence of McDonalds!
· Absence of Starbucks!
· Absence of street signs!
· Absence of trash cans on the streets!
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All too soon, our time in India was coming to an end but I believe we all looked forward to time to reflect on, process, and blog about what we had experienced. While I was in India, I emailed about my travels with my friend Sachi who wrote, “I am also glad that you are seeing and understanding the India that I come from and love for its pure simplicity. It takes a special person like you to see thru the squalor of India and get to the real essence of the people and culture.” I feel so blessed to have Sachi as a friend, and the opportunity to have visited her India.
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| Dean Weber, Brenda, and Kevin share perceptions of the day. |
Our journey home was a long one that began in Mumbai, stopped in Delhi, continued on to Chicago, and then, for me, went on to San Diego – door to door, the commute was 34 hours! And though I managed to steer clear of Delhi Belly while in India, it hit me as soon as my plane landed in San Diego. I felt so lucky to make it all the way home without incident – oh, yes, home sweet home!!! J
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Thank you for visiting my blog. Hopefully, I will have an opportunity to visit another phenomenal country next year!
Click here to play slideshow!
Thank you for visiting my blog. Hopefully, I will have an opportunity to visit another phenomenal country next year!
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